Friday, November 30, 2012

She's Got The Look

Fashion history can be categorised by the iconic shots, or in this case, body parts of models and designers. The defining characteristic, that signature look which draws people into the shots, the campaigns, the runways, those are the marks of a truly amazing model and muse. 

But let's not forget that the industry is an evolving set of ideals and the criteria for success changes every season. 

If you ask me, this could all be a big step in the right direction for us..

Daphne Groeneveld: The Doll-Faced Make-Up Muse

With the perfect face for beauty shots, Daphne has cemented herself as not only a runway model of note, but also a most wanted canvas for beauty shots.

Critics say: Anyone can look good with enough make-up on

I say: Make-up enhances, but with a bone structure and pout that strong, Daphne looks good with, or without. 

Linsey Wixson: Pouting All The Way To The Bank

Lindsey's signature pout and doe eyes have made her the face of numerous campaigns and increases her runway demand to break the mould that cute can't be fierce.

Critics say: Gaps aren't cute and neither are too-far-gone pouts.

I say: Bridget Bardot, enough said. 

Joan Smalls: Neo-Fierce Femme Fatale

Critics say: She's a new-age Naomi Campbell

I say: Joan represents a new movement of models of colour who are breaking the perception that colour should translate as 'exotic' by being a regular runway and campaign model.

Anja Rubik: Shooting From The Hip

Anja has won numerous online awards for her hip bone, most of them good. If you've got it..

Critics say: She glamourises eating disorders

I say: Those hips are an acquired taste, but nonetheless, captivating. 

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Only Space For One

Joan Smalls mentioned in a recent interview with Bazaar that she was discouraged by the notion in the fashion industry that there was "only space for one [girl of colour]". It got me thinking about the state of the industry, the state of society, but also, the seemingly unchanging mindset that women of colour are 'exotic' and can only be taken in small doses. 

It's always a big deal when a girl of colour is First Face for a runway show, or lands a major campaign, but is there enough  women of colour in the industry at all? 

It's like every season, there are at most, 3 women of colour who are 'allowed' to dominate the area of choice, when in actual fact, the entire industry is dominated by Eastern European waif-like models. 

I'm not here to start a revolution, but really, think about the theory. Is there an unspoken quota system for the fashion industry, that at any given time, two girls of colour are allowed to shine? 

There's always a contrast between the girls of the moment though, a best-of-both-worlds of ethnicity, a complimentary set of qualities to define the women chosen. Almost every time however, the women who face off, are set apart by complexion. It's a sad symptom of society, but it should serve as a symbol of equality, to show that complexion does not define beauty and that women of all races should be comfortable in their skin. But does the industry's  'regulation' of black models justify the lack of colour?

Pair #1: Tyra and Naomi

Contrast signature: Caramel vs Chocolate


Pair #2: Iman and Alek

Contrast signature: Contemporary vs Tribal (still light vs dark though)

Pair #3: Chanel and Joan

Light South American vs (comparatively) Darker South American

When will an actual balance of race be reached in the fashion industry and furthermore, when will the consumers start demanding it?

Mango: How To Be A Campaign Girl

"Dressing the modern, urban women for her daily needs is the formula we have analysed, adapted and applied in all the countries in which MANGO is present: it has been and remains one of the keys to our commercial success and international prestige."

Mango is a high street brand with a timeless sense of elegance and composure, think of their brand as well thought out, with a touch of risk. The clothes that Mango provides, makes it impossible for an outfit to be a fashion faux pas, and in keeping with that mindset, Mango chooses campaign girls who never put a foot wrong. They aren't interested in proving to be star-makers, they choose fashion veterans, and they do it well.

How to be a Mango girl:

  • Look good in neutrals
  • Be a tasteful sex-symbol
  • Have the ability to make everyday staples look like street style statement pieces

Scarlett Johansson: Fool-Proof At Looking DDG

Campaign run: 
Fall 2009
Fall/Winter 2010/2011
Fall/Winter 2011/2012

Kate Moss: The Campaign Girl (for like, everyone)

Campaign run: 
Fall 2012
Spring/Summer 2012

Miranda Kerr: The Newbie

Campaign run:
Soon-to-be Spring 2013

Mango seems to enjoy playing it safe. But will Miranda stand the test of time like the last two campaign girls which will seal her future as a Mango ambassador?

Monday, November 19, 2012

Burning Up The Blogosphere

Is it a model? A muse? A fashion siren? Oh, it's a fashion blogger.

We're all used to the fashionable people who aren't all that good looking, and yet, know so much. Well things are changing in a big way with the rise of the gorgeous fashionistas, serving as style icons and industry shapers.

Who would have thought that the fashion world would be dominated by the opinions of street style icons instead of celebs? Let me break down the major players in the street style and blogosphere game, also known as the Chic Clique

Miroslava Duma

Daughter of Russian senator

Former Editor of Harper's Bazaar Russia

Founder of style super-site Buro 24/7

Ulyana Sergeenko

Fashion designer

Wife of Russian insurance billionaire Danil Khachaturov

Inspiration for women who want to age gracefully.

Elena Perminova AKA Legs.


Girlfriend of media mogul billionaire Alexander Lebedev

Vika Gazinskaya

Fashion Designer

Hairdo Chameleon

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Is Edgy The New Elegant?

Fashion has evolved to say the least, and is worlds apart from the elitist institution it once was. The same can be said for the canvases of the fashion industry, namely, the models and muses of our time. The original supermodels were founded on Amazonian qualities, but also on a timeless elegance which was complimented by their lady-like appeal. I find that the tables have turned somewhat, with alternative girls throwing the industry on its head, proving that edgy can be beautiful, and that edgy is elegance gorgeously offset by personality. Here are some of the front runners in the industry. 

Kate Moss: "Heroin Chic"

Kate is the epitome of the danger girl, with a love for dangerous men, dangerous substances and funny enough, manages to turn the edgiest of photographs into captivating artworks. Blame it on the eyes.

**Kate was also painted by Lucian Freud

Biggest Campaigns: Dior Addict, Calvin Klein, Dolce and Gabbana, Chanel, Mango, Burberry, Topshop.

Freja Beha Erichsen: The Favourite

Although Freja is not walking the runway at the moment and only has one perfume campaign out for the season, the industry is still captivated by that sculpted face and doe-eyes. She is best known for the edge she brings with her bangs and her tattoos. 

Biggest Campaigns: Balenciaga, Jil Sander, Gucci, H&M, Calvin Klein, Hermes, Isabel Marant, Chanel, Pringle, Roberto Cavalli, Chloe, Valentino, Tom Ford.

Cara Delevingne: Taking To The Street

Cara is the muse of the moment (its no surprise I included her, I am just a tad obsessed) and her appeal is rooted in her ability to pull off high fashion as well as street. Her love for bucket caps and sneakers is somewhat legendary and her associations support her edge, particularly her love of hip hop powerhouses like Azalea Banks. Cara is for the people, you can take the girl off the street...

Biggest Campaigns: Burberry, Chanel, Blumarine, Zara.